Azara microphylla Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Floucourtiaceae
One of our favorite trees, this elegant evergreen from Chile is an excellent addition to large and small gardens. Small shiny leaves line the wiry stems on a somewhat columnar form. This variety has pendant branches and though slightly less hardy to cold, it is undoubtedly a graceful form. In late February and March very small yellow flowers, made up primarily of stamens are not particularly showy, but emit a powerful perfume of vanilla and cocoa. Flowers lucky enough to be pollinated will produce small white berries that hang on into summer. Full sun to part shade, takes full shade if it is underneath a very high canopy. To 20’ tall and 8’ wide in ten years. Handsome taupe colored bark it wonderful with the deep green foliage. Grows very fast in rich, well drained soil. Occasional summer water.
Azara microphylla ‘Cold Hardy Form’ Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Floucourtiaceae
This form of Azara microphylla is distinct from the preceding variety, not only for its superior hardiness to cold but also for its very upright habit. It is better for colder gardens and places that are exposed to strong winds. Same great foliage, delicious flowers and berries.This form goes through a somewhat awkward stage in its youth, but after several years it fills in and straightens up. To 20’ tall in 10 years and about 6’ wide. Azara is one of the very best small trees for restricted space. Infact, in new subdivisions and urban areas where buildings are closer together it forms a fantastic screen. Takes shade well and can form a very pretty pattern infront of windows without becoming oppressive. Great, Great tree.
Azara microphylla ‘Variegata’ Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Floucourtacieae
An extremely showy variegated variety of Azara with leaves dramatically lined in cream. Variegation eccentuates the graceful form of this tree. Not as fast growing as the non-variegated forms to 14’ tall and 6’ wide in 10 years. Requires a more protected location and unfortunately, is prone to some leaf drop in temperatures below 15º. Has been a long term performer in our garden. Great container plant for several years. Takes full sun but is adaptable to part shade. Beautiful underplanted with blue leaved Hosta. Regular summer irrigation.
Clerodendrum trichotomum Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Verbenaceae
Glory Bower is a staple tree in Portland, Its possible that no other city in all the world has
so many beautiful specimens. Might even be considered the official tree of our city. Horror of horrors though its not native, hailing instead from Japan. To 12’ tall and forming a small umbrella shape with time. Pungent almost tropical leaves and in late summer intensely sweet fragrant white flowers. The flowers protrude from a deep red calyx. After the bloom
star shaped red calyxes hold briliant blue berries. No fall color. Blooms late July to September. Regular water is essential through the summer.
Clerodendrum trichtotomum ‘Carnival’ Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Verbenaceae
Possibly one of the prettiest of variegated small trees and it comes with powerfully fragrant flowers and showy fruit in the fall. Not quite as tall or vigorous as the species, but leaves that are intensely edged in cream and light yellow make it a standout. Does not burn in full sun, but appreciates rich soil that is well drained with regular irrigation in summer. To 9’ tall forming an umbrella shape.
Cryptomeria japonica ‘Auricariodes’ Zn6a (-10º to -5ºF) Cupressaceae
Fantastic, exotic looking conifer with rope-like branches that are sparse and twisty when young but become denser with age. To 10' tall and forming a conical shape over time. Grows slowly in youth, picks up steam after several years. Full sun to light shade in WELL DRAINED soil, with regular summer water. Excellent specimen tree, well behaved. Always looks cool. Coldy hardy. Old selection of Japanese Cedar. Monkey Puzzle in miniature.
Cupressus sempervirens ‘Glauca’ Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Cupressaceae
Italian Cypress thrive in our climate and create a classic mediterranean look. To about 20' tall and 22" wide in the Pacific Northwest. It must have strong light from all sides to look its best. Very tolerant of drought when established. Good container plant, protect plants in pots below 12ºF. Shear the outside of the plant if it becomes disheveled by weather but only the green tips. Very easy to grow. Small plants establish faster- sturdier in the long run. Best with little water supplemental water when in the ground. Though it seems improbable it is indeed possible to “top” an Italian Cypress. It will quickly regrow a central leader. If, however, you deem it necessary to prune off all of the branches to reveal a bare trunk beware, few if any new branches will sprout from this trunk. What your are left with is a strange paintbrush form that is for the most part unalterable.
Cupressus sempervirens ‘Totem’ Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Cupressaceae
Excellent selection of the the common fastigiate Italian Cypress that is even skinnier.
To 20’ tall but only 18” wide it makes a dramatic vertical specimen. Foliage that is closer to the trunk seems to be less vulnerable to wet snows and ice. Full hot sun ( ample light from every direction if posssible) and soil that is not too rich is best. Avoid summer water once established to maintain growth that is more dense.
Cupressus sempervirens ‘Swane’s Golden’ Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Cupressaceae
A very old golden form of the useful and dramatic Italian Cypress. Moderate growing to 10' in as many years but only 18" wide. Best in full sun (sun hitting it from all sides) in well drained soil- little additional water is needed for established plants in the ground. Containerized plants should be in full sun with regular water. Protect potted Cypress from temps below 15ºF. MUCH hardier in the ground. Tip prune or shear lightly to maintain density.
Eucalyptus in the Northwest
Possibly one of the most popular groups of ornamental trees Eucalyptus are prized for their striking evergreen foliage and beautiful bark. These trees, nearly all are of Australian origin and are planted in mild climates around the world. In the Pacific Northwest they have long been grown with some success. Popularity has expanded due to the introduction of species and forms that are known for excellent hardiness to cold. These primarily come from areas that naturally experience cold temperatures or from individual trees that have shown remarkable cold tolerance. Though it is important to note that in Australia these species are exposed to cold alpine conditions it is NEVER truly arctic air. Unfortunately, we are not as lucky. It is very important to pay close attention to several things before you plant them. Remember that Eucalyptus are only raised from seed and this means that there will be some variation in hardiness in nearly all.
Hardiness to cold is the first factor. We offer varieties that have proven to be long term performers in our region. That means that they will take all but the most extreme winters without damage. In those extreme winters where temperatures drop below 10º and highs are below 20º even the cold hardiest varieties may be damaged. This is because the coldest alpine regions of Australia seldom experience extremely low temperatures for an extended period of time. Eucalyptus gain hardiness with age. (See below “cut foliage’) Established trees in FULL sun and full exposure (which causes them to harden off ) will be the most resistant to cold. This means that they should get as much light from all directions if possible. If they are shaded on one side they will grow away from the shade and towards the most light. Shaded conditions will result in trees that grow weakly and are less adapted to cold temperatures. Second, you must be prepared for them to grow explosively fast. Soils in Australia are very old and poor. Eucalyptus are adapted to these conditions. Even unamended soils in our region are richer in nutrients in comparison to native Australian soil. Rich soil combined with ample moisture results in Eucalyptus that are a little too fat and happy. Plant them in unammended soil with little supplemental irrigation once they begin to grow. All of the following varieties require well drained soil. Give them room to grow- this means plan ahead. They can grow up to 6’ a year. This rapid growth can leave trees susceptible to strong winter winds and combined with wet soil leave them vulnerable to wind rock.
To ensure a windfast tree it is best to cut Eucalyptus back by 1/3rd the second year they are in the ground. They quickly grow a new leader. This increases the root growth to top growth ratio and will help stabilize the tree. Avoid staking if possible. It is best to plant Eucalyptus from 1 gallon to 2 gallon sizes and NO larger.
For cut foliage:
Many Eucalyptus species have striking juvenile foliage that will turn to adult foliage with a much different look as they grow into arboreal form. The most familiar juvenile foliage is perfoliate which is the popular cut material of the florist trade. To retain this attractive juvenile foilage (or just to limit size) Eucalyptus may be cut back to the ground. “Coppicing” as this is called will result in a shrub that regrows with multiple trunks.
This can also happen when a tree freezes to the ground and is possibly an adaptation to regeneration after bush fires. In Australia Eucalyptus with this form are called Mallees (pronounced Mollies). To achieve this it is best that you allow at least one to two years for the tree to establish a large root system. Coppicing is ideally done between March 1st and April 15th. This gives the tree a long growing season to reestablish new growth before the following winter. It may seem extreme at the time, when you find yourself staring at stumps, but new growth will begin in four to six weeks. Be patient. Once they start to regrow it proceeds rapidly. For trees that have been damaged by cold weather it
is important to wait a little longer. If by late April you can ascertain that they entire tree above ground is dead or just individual large branches, you can then either cut it to the ground or remove dead limbs. New branches will often sprout directly from the trunk.
Eucalyptus archeri Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Myrtaceae
The "Alpine Cider Gum" is native to high mountain areas of Tasmania where it forms an umbrella-shaped tree to 20' tall. One of the cold hardiest of all gums it will seldom be damaged by even our coldest winters. Silver, perfoliate juvenile foliage turns to gray green lanceolate ribbons when mature. Full sun and water only until you see it growing- then stop- it can handle any amount of drought and will be hardier to cold and wind if left to fend on its own. Do not stake. Excellent tree for a small garden. Coppice in March to maintain juvenile foliage.
Eucalyptus coccifera Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Myrtaceae
One of the most successful Eucalyptus for our climate is the Tasmanian Snow Gum. To 30' tall very quickly and is well adapted to snow as well as subfreezing wind. In our climate it still requires a protected location. Full sun in average soil and little water once established. Long olive green leaves and lovely python mottled bark in greens and pinks. Do not stake. Tip prune to establish a sturdy trunk. Established trees that are grown in tough conditions withstand cold better. Good near a southfacing hill or building. Reaches it’s full cold hardiness as an established tree.
Eucalyptus subcrenulata Zn8a (10º to 15ºF) Myrtaceae
In Australia this Mallee grows in sub-alpine areas where it reaches up to 30’ tall. In our climate it also grows fast in full hot sun and well drained places. One of the prettiest for foliage with intense apple green perfoliate juvenile leaves. Leaves surround stems that are bright red. Very striking tree that. Could be hardier to cold if established and protected from subfreezing wind.
Eucalyptus mitchelliana Zn8a (10º to 15ºF) Myrtaceae
Graceful weeping gum that is closely allied to Snow Gum - Euc. pauciflora. Somewhat restrained growth (for a Eucalyptus- its still fast growing by other standards) to 4’ a years.
Strongly weeping branches with long, scimitar -shaped gray leaves on handsome showy
red stems. Bark exfoliates dramatically to mottled patterns of deep gray, taupe and green.
To 20’ tall and 10’ wide in time. Appreciates a wind protected location in full sun and well drained soil with only occasional summer irrigations. VERY pretty tree.
Eucalyptus pauciflora ssp. debuezevillei Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Myrtaceae
Probably the hardiest Eucalyptus to cold, Jounama Snow Gum will grow rapidly to 20' with a handsome umbrella shaped habit .The trunk develops lovely python mottling of green, white, and pink. Full sun in average soil. Water only until established- then none. Cut back by one third in its second year to establish a strong trunk and roots. Recovers very quickly. One of the few Eucalyptus that stands subfreezing wind. Handles snow and ice well. Lovely small tree with a lot of character. Probably the best adapted Euc. for the PNW.
Eucalyptus pauciflora ssp. niphophila Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Myrtaceae
Snow Gum is a small tree from the highest elevations of the Australian Alps and is one of the best for the PNW. To 30' fairly fast, long gray leaves and mottled bark make it one of the most beautiful trees in the world. Full sun, not much water and a protected location. Do not stake... it will stand up on its own. Grows quickly with a spreading crown. Tip prune if it grows too fast to allow it to develop a sturdy trunk. Cold hardy. Plant away from patios. To avoid summer leaf drop, stupendous background tree for a border or landscape.
Eucryphia glutinosa Zn6b (-5º to 0ºF) Eucryphiaceae
Beautiful small tree that has a great many attributes, the least which is that it is perfectly hardy to cold in the PNW. The only truly deciduous Eucryphia with VERY handsome glossy leaves that turn brilliant red before falling. In July and August this tree becomes a cloud of 11/2” bell shaped white flowers with a central boss of protruding stamens. When friends visit for a summer barbeque you can call them over to show them the clouds of 11/2” bell shaped flowers with a central boss of protruding stamens. They will think that
you’ve already been at the margarita pitcher and they will probably be right, but you will think you sound intelligent and the tree will still be ever beautiful. To 14’ tall and pyramid shaped. Part shade to full sun with a cool root run. Moist rich soil with regular water.
Err on the side of shade in the Willamette Valley. Chile/Argentina.
Eucryphia x intermedia ‘Nymansay’ Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Eucryphiaceae
Long grown in the PNW but very seldom seen. To 30’ with great age but only 10’ wide
this stately evergreen tree is a natural for protected courtyards and confined spaces. Trifoliate evergreen leaves, are glossy green year round. Slightly tender when young, winter damage disappears surprisingly fast in spring. Copious amounts of fragrant white
bell shaped flowers in July. Very pretty tree fro a protected location in full sun to light shade with a cool root run and regular water.
Eucryphia x intermedia ‘Rostrevor’ Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Eucryphiaceae
An evergreen Eucryphia hybrid that is one of the hardiest to cold. Moderate growing tree to 20’ tall and 9’ wide over time. Very much has the appearance of an evergreen oak. In late June through early August it covers itself in white nodding bells that are the largest of any Eucryphia. Beaufitul long lasting display during the best weather of the years. Columnar shaped, fits well into small gardens. Best in part shade in the Willamette Valley, dislikes hot roots. Regular water in rich soil. Insane that Eucryphias are not grown more often here. They are hardy to cold, make wonderful companions with Rhododendrons and have all the grace and flower power of Styrax. Regular water in summer.
Eucryphia lucida Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Eucryphiaceae
Why do we grow Eucryphias? Because they are beautiful trees and because they thrive in the PNW climate and VERY few other places besides their native Chile/Argentina and
Tasmania. And so for those gardeners who cannot grow Eucryphias in the rest of the
country we are obligated to pick up the slack. A surprisingly hardy columnar tree from Tasmania with dapper round evergreen leaves. To 20’ tall over time and 8’ wide. In summer copious amounts of 1” white bells. Full sun in average to rich soil that drains well. Occasional deep soaks during the dry summer months. Fits well into confined places.
Leaves may be damaged in colder than average winters (below 10ºF), recovers quickly.
Eucryphia lucida ‘Pink Cloud’ Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Eucryphiaceae
As for the species but with pink tinted flowers.
Genista aetnensis Zn7b (5º to 10ºF) Papillionaceae
Mt. Etna Broom, from the lava covered slopes of Italy and for that matter Europe’s tallest volcano makes a wonderful “shade-less” tree for hot sun. Rus-like weeping stems actually have tiny leaves that are barely noticeable. In summer you will notice the clouds of golden yellow pea flowers that emit the powerful perfume of Jasmine. To 14’ tall, best in full hot sun and poor, well drained soil. Little summer water when established. A great small tree for a see-through vertical effect, without being oppressive. Grows quickly, and is best without extra encouragement.
Lyonothamnus floribundus var. asplenifolius Zn8a (10º to 15ºF) Rosaceae
California native, more specifically a native of the Channel Islands that makes a wonderful evergreen tree for protected locations. Catalina Ironwood, is related to roses and in summer bears cymes of flat-topped white flowers. It is the deeply incised evergreen compound leaves that are its most glorious attribute. Full hot sun in well drained soil. Tolerates drought and poor soils. Great courtyard tree. No other tree boasts leaves as beautiful. To 18’ tall and 10’ wide, forming an umbrella shape.
Persea yunnanensis Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Lauraceae
A close relative of the Avacado as well as Bay this delicate evergreen tree is one of the very prettiest broad leaved evergreens for gardens. Lance shaped leaves of olive green point down and accentuate the umbrella shape that this tree eventually assumes. To 18’ tall and 10’ wide, larger over time. Small inconspicuous green flowers. Adaptable to part shade to full sun with regular water during the summer. Enjoys a soil that is rich in organic matter. Once established it is hardy to cold, drought and is long lived. Wonderful small tree for year round interest in urban gardens. Evergreen nature gives it a sophisticated
look but still provides shelter for birds and other wildlife in winter.
Trachycarpus fortunei Zn7a (0º to 5ºF) Araceae
Windmill Palm has long, long been grown in our region as one of the very best
adapted palms. It takes cool conditions and established trees have taken temperatures as low as -10ºF and survived. However, young plants may be tender below 12ºF- so it is important to make sure that they are well established before they go into their first winter. Slow to moderate growing in youth they speed up at about 8’ in the ground. Leaving fronds on will give them more energy to grow faster. Old fronds may be trimmed off in early spring. To 20’ tall in time in well drained soil with regular summer water to speed growth. Adaptable to part shade. Tropical in appearance it is actually best suited to woodland conditions where it grows natively with Rhododendrons and magnolias. Just because you think it looks tropical does not mean that it is. Stereotypes can suck for a reason. In containers they require regular irrigation and fertilzer or they will turn yellow.
Ours are raised from seed of a tree that grows in Portland.
Wider then it appears in youth to 10’ when happy.